1. Placche di Peyer Close to the hotel, 45 minutes walk. Walk out from the hotel to the main road. Walk down beyond the nuraghe, there is a signposted turnoff that follows a gravel lane. The lane briefly ascends the hillside before a junction with a path alongside the hill. Turn left, walk along the path past 2 WWII-era? fortlets to where it enters the wood. The path reaches an expansion/turnaround; just before this is a narrow path with painted red and white markers leading up the hillside to where the cliffs start.

Mostly vertical climbing, compact limestone, short routes. Generally fairly easy overall but holds can be "thin" in places. Almost highball-boulder. Bouldering also possible at various points. There is an intimidating-looking but safe descent from the cliff-tops, immediately above a large wind-shelter (stone enclosure) with a fixed rope if you need it. Descend here and you will be in the centre of the climbing cliffs.

2. Casarotto On Capo Caccia itself, just before the Grotte di Nettuno. A brief drive or short pleasant cycle. Take the main road to Capo Caccia (left on main road then follow signs). Immediately after the turnoff to Cala Dragunara, there is a somewhat more obvious turnoff to the right signposted to Casarotto. If coming by car, park in the layby beyond the bend, and walk down to the bend in the road, where a track of sorts leads to a cliff face. Here again an intimidating-looking but safe descent - the trod of feet is unmistakeable; if you are not going down something that shows clear evidence of the passage of many feet you are attempting to descend in the wrong place - leads to the climbing area. No fixed rope here.

Longer routes but still by and large single-pitch. Steep, massive overhangs, with huge juggy holds. May need more strength but the holds here are reassuringly positive. Enormous variety in a spectacular setting.

Last modified 4 years ago Last modified on 05/01/15 13:33:00