The Sessions

The chocolate tasting group convened 3 times, each with encouragingly increasing attendance. The first session had 12 participants, the second 14, and the third 28 (The increase in the third may also be accounted for by heavy publicity). The goals of the sessions were: 1) to explore the range of good Italian chocolate available; 2) to introduce participants to fine chocolate; 3) to explain how to taste (and handle) good chocolate; 4) to promote interest in fine chocolate, and 5) to answer questions about the technical points of chocolate: manufacturing processes, storage, companies involved, and in fact a broad range of issues that came up in the group. Each session had a mildly different theme each organised around the concept of "fine" chocolate, that is, chocolate aimed at a more discerning audience than the mass-market and made at least with an attempt at quality.

The Chocolates

Session 1 was the "easy intro" to fine chocolate, featuring a broad variety of different chocolates from a selection of Italian manufacturers. This was also the only session with milk chocolates. It should be noted that Italian milk chocolate on the whole is fairly lacklustre, for no obvious reason, hence the small number of such represented. The bulk of the chocolate was dark bittersweet.

From Caffarel, a fairly standard "premium" volume Italian manufacturer came their 70%

From Baratti e Milano, an upscale premium brand came a milk chocolate and a 70% dark.

From SAID, an artisanal manufacturer of high quality in Rome, came 3 varietals from specific origins: Malagascio (Madagascar), Morogoro (Tanzania), Latino (Venezuela)

From Domori, an elite manufacturer, one of the "big 4" ultraquality chocolate makers considered to be among the best in the world, came Il Blend 70%, a 70% dark chocolate.

From Amedei, another one of the "big 4" elite names, came Jamaica, a single-origin 70% dark chocolate.

Session 2 was the "exploring the options" session, featuring experimentation among premium brands where the emphasis was as much on originality as quality, more interesting chocolates that are all good and in addition feature an element of the distinctive and characteristic. All the chocolates here were single-origin rather than blends.

Baratti e Milano was represented again, this time with the Venezuela 80% dark, a single origin.

SAID offered more varietals: Samana (Dominican Republic), Arawak (Indonesia) and Cuba

Domori contributed a whole range: Apurimac (Peru), Arriba (Ecuador), Teyuna (Colombia), Sur del Lago (Venezuela) and Sambirano (Madagascar)

Session 3 was the "Elite" session, featuring a selection of chocolates considered by the experts to be among the finest chocolates in the world, including, among others, one generally thought of as the best in the world, perhaps ever. In this rarefied stratum, only 3 chocolatiers in Italy can play.

Venchi provided a change with gianduja. It's not "chocolate" in the fully traditional sense, but it's definitely characteristically Italian, and Venchi's gianduja has such an unequivocal superiority over anyone else's that it deserved representation in this session.

Domori put forth Chuao and Puertomar, both single-plantation chocolates (from Hacienda San Jose in Venezuela) from 2 unique bean genestocks.

Amedei provided Porcelana and Chuao, each a distinctive genetic varietal from specific areas in Venezuela. It should be noted that "Chuao" is normally thought of as a cacao specifically from the village of Chuao. Domori's is a bit of a "cheat", being beans of the same genetics cultivated elsewhere in the country, but Amedei's is the real thing from the real village.

The Results

Each session made fairly clear the stark differences between levels of manufacture. Clearly the larger volume manufacturers, Caffarel and Baratti e Milano, were not on average up to the level of the other manufacturers. SAID was a step-jump in quality overall, although with marginal statistical significance. Domori was generally at about the same level but often with large variances between tasters and also with considerable variance between chocolates. The effect of specific style choice here is noticeable: Domori follows a style that emphasises getting the full characteristics of the bean over balance; which works for some but not necessarily for all. Amedei was another step-jump above. Featuring small variances and generally high marks, they stood out without question. (Fig.1)

And the best? It really was never a contest. Amedei Chuao scored an overwhelming victory, completely dominating all the other chocolates and eclipsing even their closest rival (their own Jamaica!) by nearly half a point. It should hardly be a surprise, then, that this is the chocolate considered to be the best in the world: some things make themselves self-evident.

In second and third places, and also deserving mention, are Amedei Jamaica and Domori Sambirano These 3 chocolates also collectively stand out from a "pack" somewhat behind them.

Where to get it?

There have been several requests for chocolate sources in various countries. Here is a list of places to go. None of the listings here should be construed as constituting a commercial endorsement of the place in question, so your mileage may vary. Still, for most of them I'm fairly confident. Note also that naturally my recommendations are going to be more reliable for countries I've spent more time in (thus the UK will be the most reliable, with Germany and Sweden probably the shakiest)

The UK

In London, for bar chocolate, go to Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, or Fortnum and Mason. They generally have the broadest and most reliable supply.

For boxed chocolates go to William Curley (absolutely first!) Paul A. Young, and L'Artisan du Chocolat. All 3 of these also have interesting if somewhat more limited bar chocolate selections.

Online, order from  http://www.chocolateandlove.co.uk (for the most interesting brands) or  http://www.chocolatetradingco.com (for a few others)

If you ask me privately I can also provide a list of specific shops in other British towns.

The USA

Even if you have a good local shop, you will find in general the range and breadth of bar chocolates to be had at  http://www.chocosphere.com to be unbeatable.

This is not so true for boxed chocolates. To give a comprehensive rundown of chocolatiers in the USA would be beyond the scope of this note but I'll mention one that deserves IMHO special mention: Theo Chocolate  http://www.theochocolate.com who have consistently produced what I regard as the finest chocolates in the world.

Italy

In Rome, the best sources for bars are Castroni (go to the shop on Via Cola di Rienzo) and Volpetti. For boxed chocolates, SAID (on Via Tiburtina) and Mariondo and Gariglio get my vote.

France

In Paris, the selection may seem bottomless but you do have to exercise some discretion. For bars, Cacao et Chocolat is the consistent favourite.

Among boxed chocolate makers, there are many, many that attract, but I've found only 3 that really do live up to the reputation: La Maison du Chocolat, Michel Cluizel and Richart. Cluizel also offers all of his bars and other items in-shop: he's a fairly large wholesale manufacturer of chocolate. In this sense he's a bit unique in being one of the only Parisian shops to make the chocolate itself as well as the confections.

Online, the best source is  http://www.chocolat-only.com. They appear to distribute all over Europe (although I've not tested this) and their selection is what you might hope for.

Switzerland

Zurich have a couple of good shops: Truffe and Chocomotion  http://www.chocomotion.ch. Chocomotion also sells on-line and is thus a nice "one-stop source"

Michael Pfeiffer: Chocomotion currently does not have Amedei chocolates in their shop in Marktgasse, but they might sell it online. Jelmoli Gourmet has several Domori chocolates (e.g. Porcelana and Puertofino).

Germany

Berlin's Winterfeldt Schokoladen  http://www.winterfeldt-schokoladen.de has an awe-inspiring selection and does on-line ordering to boot. Schokogalerie fills in most of the (few) gaps in brands.